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Tuesday, July 25, 2017

Making Doll Food Polymer Clay 101 pt 14

I know I gave a very brief discussion about baking surfaces in an early video in this series but I thing it is important enough to discuss it in more detail.

I have included photos of the bottom surface of the pieces of clay I baked on each baking surface. I know some are difficult to see, hopefully you can see the differences. 

If you are a regular viewer of my channel you may have already noticed that most of the time I bake my clay projects on paper plates. Yes, it is perfectly safe. The burning temperature for the clay is much lower than the burning temperature for the paper. In my opinion there are several advantages to using paper plates to bake on. Fist they are cheap, only use the really cheap kind that is plain white and has no coating. Secondly the paper plate doesn't really leave any kind of marking on the bottom side of your clay. The top and the bottom of flat pieces of clay look pretty much the same texture wise.

One of the things I do a lot is test bake clay mixtures. Whenever I am working on a new project I mix my clay and then bake small pieces to see if I have the mixture the way I want it. With the paper plate I can make the notes about the mixtures I have tried right on the plate next to that piece of clay.

If you are working with a group of people doing clay projects you can write each person's name right on the paper plate that contains their project. Makes keeping everything straight much easier.

Another surface I use often is a ceramic tile. Just one from the home improvement store. I like to stick to the 6” by 6” ones for baking and reserve the bigger size to work on. The major problem with tiles is that they leave the bottom of the clay project very shiny. This can be a distraction on many projects. The only time I always use a tile is if I am using liquid clay, then the tile is a must so you can cleanly remove the project from the baking surface.

The other surface I use regularly is sand paper. I love how it makes the bottom side of the clay look like a real baked good. I especially like this when making doll cookies.

Now these are not the only surfaces I use, these are just the top 3. In many projects I will specify what I suggest you bake on, and I usually choose the surface based on what texture will look best with the finished item. 

Tuesday, July 18, 2017

Doll Size Green Onions

I decided it was time we put some of the skills I have been teaching you in the Clay 101 series to work. I love how we can use the skinner blend I taught recently to make the green onions look realistic. If you missed that tutorial (or just want a refresher on the technique) you can find it here.

The clays I used were:

Fimo white
Sculpey III translucent

mix these in equal parts for the white blend

Sculpey III String Bean
Fimo Translucent green (or the same translucent you used in the white blend)

mix these in equal parts for the green blend

I find it really useful to bake a sample of my clay blends when I am adding translucent clay to the mixture since the color of those blends changes a lot when baked.

Feel free to use the same plain translucent clay in both blends, I used the green translucent because I had a lot more of it than of the plain.

We want our finished green onions in this scale to be no bigger in diameter that 1/8th “ and about 4” long.

Any time I am using a translucent clay I lower my baking temperature to 235° F because translucent clay has a bad habit of discoloring at higher temperatures. Bake these for about 10 minutes and allow to cool.

Tuesday, June 27, 2017

Making Doll Food Polymer Clay 101 pt 13

This week for our Clay 101 series I decided to talk about a topic that actually touches on one of my pet peeves about doll foods. That is clear finishes. The first thing I want to stress is most projects don't need any clear finish.

I'll wait while you think about that statement.

Okay, now back to the blog. Take a close look at the foods you eat, how many of them are actually shiny? Not all that many when you get right down to it. So don't overuse clear finish. Especially don't overuse the thick super shiny finishes.

If you decide you want to use a clear finish on your project use something that is compatible with the clay. The first thing to check for is it water based? The easiest way to determine this is to check the instructions for cleaning up your tools, if you can clean up with water/ soap and water you have something to try. I wouldn't go and put an untested finish on a huge project though unless you know for sure it is compatible with the clay. Many finishes will eat the clay so test or talk to someone that knows what will and won't work.

Tuesday, June 13, 2017

Making Doll Food Polymer Clay 101 pt 12

Since we have spent the last two weeks on the pasta machine for working with clay I thought this would be the perfect time to show you my favorite technique for the pasta machine. Today I am showing you the Skinner Blend. This is a way of making a very pretty blend of two (or more) colors that is very evenly blended. We will be using this in future doll food projects.

There are really only a few “secrets” to this technique first be sure to use well conditioned clay that is not too soft. Try to make sure both colors of clay are close in their texture. Start out with pieces of clay that are the same size and thickness. Only run the clay through the pasta machine in the one direction and always fold the same way.

If you follow these rules you will succeed at this pretty technique. Later I will show you some variations that kind of break a few of the rules. 

Tuesday, June 6, 2017

Making Doll Food Polymer Clay 101 pt 11

This week we are going to be cleaning the pasta machine. It is really pretty easy to do and you should do a minor cleaning every time you use it. By that I mean run a wet wipe over the bars to remove residue and wipe the base up a bit.

If you are going to be using a light color clay run a piece of scrap white clay (I use a chunk of Original Sculpey for this) through the rollers to make sure you have them clean.

A more thorough cleaning can be done as needed. I prefer to take the clay machine off the table for this more intense cleaning so I can see all the parts. I do use a wooden skewer and toothpicks but do be careful to not scratch the rollers.

Cleaning these machines really isn't too difficult and should be done regularly.  

Tuesday, May 30, 2017

Making Doll Food Polymer Clay 101 pt 10

This week on our Clay 101 series we are talking about a tool I use every time I work with polymer clay, my pasta machine. I am so glad I decided to bite the bullet so to speak and use this pasta machine for clay.

A bit of a back story about how I came to get this pasta machine. Anyone that knows me in real life knows I love to cook, it is one of my passions and years ago back when I was a new bride my mother-in-law gifted me with a top of the line pasta machine. I had seen this machine in a kitchen store that used to be local to us and my thought was “who would pay that much for a pasta machine” Then I found myself opening it up for my birthday. I thanked her profusely and I did attempt to make pasta with it. One time. That was more than enough times to make it really clear to me that I was never going to be making fresh pasta. At least not with that pasta machine. I have better things to do with my time. I would rather make the sauce and buy the pasta.

Anyway, the pasta machine sat at the back of my kitchen cabinet for years, over a decade close to two decades. I would pull the box out occasionally, wonder what I should do with it. I felt guilty that it just sat there but I really could never convince myself to make pasta again. I even moved it to a new house and it took up residence in the back of a new cabinet. I really felt bad but....

Then I started working with polymer clay. I read some articles where people were using pasta machines to roll out their clay. That made me think... should I? I wanted to but I again felt guilty. I knew that once I put a piece of clay through the machine I couldn't use it for pasta again. I debated for a couple of years and then one day I just boldly took that pasta machine out of the cabinet, un-boxed it and clamped it to my table. I then found a lump of clay that really needed some rolling out and I never looked back. The only regret I had was that I hadn't done this years before.

My pasta machine and I have spent hours together, it is always clamped to my work table and I use it every time I work with clay.

Then there is that second pasta machine, the one that was marketed for clay. I was at a store closing sale one time and they had this one machine left and it was marked down to less than $5! I felt like I couldn't pass that deal up.

My thought process was that I would be able to use the cheap machine for dark color clay and the good one for the lighter colors. The problem is that having 2 pasta machines on my table just took up way too much table space.

Maybe some day I will figure out how to use both machines and still have work space. In the meantime it doesn't take up too much space in the storage room and I can always dig it out if I need it.

Tuesday, May 23, 2017

Making Doll Food Polymer Clay 101 pt 9

This week as we continue our discussion of working with polymer clay to make our doll foods I wanted to go a bit more in-depth on how to color your liquid polymer clay. I am working with the same 2 brands I showed you last week in our introduction to liquid clays.

The two easiest ways to color this product in my opinion is to use either chalk or tube oil paint.

For using chalk just scrape off a bit of the chalk from the stick just like if you were going to use it to color your clay. Then mix it into the liquid clay with something like a toothpick. This will give a slightly cloudy color and you can often see the granules of the chalk. This can be a good or bad thing depending on what you are making. For some applications it is just what you do want.

To use tube oil paint just start with the smallest amount you can and just use the amount it takes to color the product. You don't want too much, a little goes a very long way. The paint gives a richer more solid color and is the baked liquid clay retains more of its translucency.

I do want to take a moment to say I know there are a lot of tutorials out there where acrylic paint is used to color liquid polymer clay. This is something the manufacturers do not recommend. Acrylic paint is water based and it can cause big problems when you bake the clay. I have heard of instances where items exploded when those water vapors expanded in the oven. So please stay away from the acrylic paint. The oil paints I use are the cheapest ones from the craft store so the investment in them was less than $5.

The last thing I covered in this video was how to mix the liquid clay with a dry crumbly clay to revive it. As you saw it is really easy to do. This is also the same way you make frosting (or other spreadable food items) from polymer clay.

Lastly I hope the difference in the surface shine was apparent on the video. There is a world of difference in how these two brands look when baked. That is one of the reasons I keep both brands on hand.

Tuesday, May 16, 2017

Making Doll Food Polymer Clay 101 pt8

This week I decided to just talk a few minutes about liquid polymer clay. I know we will need to get more in depth later but for now I just wanted to give you a quick overview.

I am sorry this is so short but time was an issue this week. Darn real life kept getting in my way of making doll stuff. Don't you hate it when that happens?

Anyway, this week we are talking about the two liquid polymer clays I use the most. The first (and easiest to get my hands on) is Translucent Liquid Scupley. You should be able to be able to get it almost anywhere you can buy polymer clay.

The second one is Liquid Kato clay and for me that is something I have to get when I am on vacation since the only store I have ever found it in was Hobby Lobby (and we don't have those here)

Both of these products are very useful and I if possible I would say try to get both. If you are only going to get one (or just to start) I would probably say start with the Sculpey product.

In future weeks I will go over working with the liquid clays in more detail. 

Tuesday, May 2, 2017

Making Doll Food Polymer Clay 101 pt 7

This week we are building on the skill we talked about last week. If you remember last week we talked about easy ways to make sure you were getting consistent results when you rolled out your polymer clay. This week we are taking that a step further and talking about making consistent portions of clay.

When might you need to use this skill might be the first question to come to your mind. The answer is anytime you want to make multiple items that are the same size. Things like batches of cookies, berries, and so many more that I can't list them.

The secret is to roll the clay out to a consistent thickness and use a cutter (any shape) to cut pieces. If your clay is a consistent thickness and you use the same cutter to cut it all the pieces will be the same size. They will have the same amount of clay. If you find that your portions of clay are the wrong size for your project it is easy to adjust. You can either make the clay thinner (or thicker) and/or use a different cutter to cut it. 

Tuesday, April 25, 2017

Making Doll Food Polymer Clay 101 pt 6

This week in our clay 101 tutorial I want to talk a bit about how to roll out your clay so that it is both a consistent thickness across the surface and it is the thickness you want it to be. It really is simple just collect some wood scraps that are various thicknesses from about 1/16” to about ¼” thick. You can even glue thinner pieces together to make the different thicknesses. Just lay one piece on each side of your clay and roll until your clay roller comes in contact with them. 

Tuesday, April 18, 2017

Making Doll Food Polymer Clay 101 pt 5

This week we are going to talk about the chalks I use to color my clay projects. The ones I use are in a stick form and are sold for people that do drawing with them. I just bought cheap ones because that is all we need for what we are doing. I have a lot of colors I will probably never use but I also have many options and you never know when there might be an occasion to use those fun colors.

When I do run out of a color I will probably replace just the ones I need to replace. If you look at some art stores (the ones that cater to artists as opposed to crafters) they usually sell similar chalk/ pastel sticks individually.

For applying the chalk I prefer an eyeshadow brush to a paint brush. I get a much better result from them. After all the eyeshadow brush is made for a powder product where a paint brush is made for a wet medium. I just buy my brushes at the dollar store and if you take care of them they will last a very long time.

I do recommend having at least 2 brushes, that way you can use more colors at a time.

Do be sure to wash the brush after every use, you don't want to muddy up the next project with the chalk left in the brush from the last one. A simple wash with warm water and a mild liquid soap works best. Shampoo is my preference for soap for my bushes but any liquid soap will do. Be sure your brush is completely dry before you use it next time.

Now for applying the chalk. I noticed that the problem most of you have with applying chalks is that you don't seem to be burnishing the color in enough to get the color even across the project. You do want to really work with the brush and the chalk and work that chalk into the surface.

Just like anything else this takes some practice, just keep working at it and you will get the hang of it.

Tuesday, April 11, 2017

Making Doll Food Polymer Clay 101 pt 4

This week we are going to talk about texturing our clay projects. This is one of my favorite parts of working with clay. It is just so much fun to take a piece of clay and use some simple tools to give it the texture to make it look like something els.

These are my favorite tools for this process and none of them are expensive. Most in fact are free or almost free. None will cost you over a dollar or two.

First up is the peppercorn. Yes, you read that correctly a peppercorn from the kitchen. These little things are really just little balls of texture. Each one is just a bit different and they are small and easy to use. Look for one that has lots of texture, some are much more smooth than others.

Next is really a category and I will just call them “pointy tools” these can be anything that comes to a sharp point. The three here are my favorites but look in your stash and see what you can come up with. My all time favorite is the dental pick, I like it the best because of the long handle so I can get the point to just the angle I want it. The pin is my next favorite, try to find one with the bead type head, they are much easier to hold onto (and they don't get lost as easy on the work table)

A ball of aluminum foil is the next tool we are working with. Either a large ball or a small one, or have a few on hand of different sizes. Just crumple the foil up a few times then mash it into a ball that is comfortable to hold.

Our fourth “tool” is some sandpaper and/or an emery board. They are really used for the same texture just different scales of the texture. I also occasionally bake items on top of a piece of sandpaper, that way the texture just happens automatically. I also use the emery board to help me hold/support items when I am using some of the other tools.

The pot scrubber, you can get these near the dish washing items in the grocery store or the dollar store. I actually prefer the texture of the ones from the dollar store and they come 3 for a dollar (at least at my store yesterday)

Our last tools are the brushes. I use both some wire cleaning brushes that I purchased at Harbor Freight and a dollar store toothbrush. I am sure you can get the wire brushes just about anywhere that sells tools. These both are so handy and I use them a lot.

So those are my favorite tools to texture clay with. I hope you are finding this series helpful. If you have specific areas of working with clay you would like me cover be sure to let me know. 

Tuesday, April 4, 2017

Making Doll Food Polymer Clay 101 pt 3

This week I am going to talk about the very basic tools you need to get started working with your polymer clay. I did spend some time really thinking about what the basics are. You know those things that I feel you actually need to start work with the clay. Sure, there are a lot of other tools that are fun to work with but in my opinion if you have these items you can do a lot of fun projects.

I also made sure to pick those items that are inexpensive. I don't want you to go out and spend tons of money on tools. I want you to feel like you can pick up these items and still have plenty of money left for lots of clay.

So to start you need a surface to work on. I think a 12” by 12” ceramic tile is the most practical surface out there. You want to find one that is smooth and a neutral color. The one I have in the video has some not so smooth areas off to the one side but the center (work area) is smooth. I like to stick to a gray or beige color because then I get a better idea of the color my clay is. With tiles that are other colors sometimes they can make the clay colors look off. You should have no problem finding a tile that will work for under $2 at your local home improvement store.

Next we need to roll our clay out for a lot of projects. For this I give you 2 options. One is a real acrylic clay roller. These will cost around $10 and you should be able to find them anywhere that polymer clay is sold. My other option is an empty jar like capers come in. I like these jars because they are about the same size as a roller and they have the same straight sides. You get the bonus of having a built in area to store some of your texturing tools inside of the jar. When you get more advanced at working with the clay you might want to look at a pasta machine that can be dedicated to your clay.

Next we need to be able to cut our clay. For this I do recommend you go out and purchase a clay blade. I really haven't been able to find anything that works as well as the real thing for cutting the clay.

After you get your clay project ready you are going to have to bake and for this you need something to put it on. I almost always use the cheap un-coated paper plates. Look for the really cheap ones, they seem to actually be much better for this than the nicer ones. I occasionally bake on a ceramic tile and those are the only 2 surfaces I ever use to bake my clay on (well, almost always there is one exception we will talk about when the time comes) The tile will give a shiny surface to the bottom of you project.

And lastly a package of wet wipes, you know the kind in the baby aisle of every grocery store. If possible I get the ones that aren't alcohol free but sometimes that is all the stores have. Either type will work just fine for cleaning your tools and your hands while and after you are working with the clay. 

Tuesday, March 28, 2017

Making Doll Food Polymer Clay 101 pt 2

This week we are going to be talking about conditioning your polymer clay. When you open the package of clay it needs to be warmed up, kind of like when we stretch before we exercise. Just like an athlete's body needs to warm up so does your clay.

It doesn't matter if you are opening up a brand new package of clay or if you are picking up a block of clay you used before you need to condition it every time you work with it.

Don't worry, it's really easy. Just work with it in your hands to make it more pliable. Depending on the brand and age of the clay this process can take a while. Some brands (Fimo) take longer and so does clay that has been around a while.

If your clay is really cold and or hard try warming it up a bit. I usually tuck the package into a item of clothing against my skin for a while. Body heat can do wonders for getting you clay ready to work.

Now if you have some really hard or dry clay and you have been trying for a while and it just isn't coming together some of the clay manufacturers have products that can be added to help with the process. If you are really desperate and want to get the clay softened quickly add just a drop or two of oil. You can use mineral oil or vegetable oil for this. Remember I said a drop or two. Don't add much just a tiny drop and try to work it in.

Now what if you have the opposite problem and the clay is too soft. Yes, this does happen, some of the brands are very soft and hard to work with. For this take a plain sheet of paper and lay the clay on it for overnight. In the morning you should see an “oily” stain on the paper and the clay should be a slight be firmer.

Now you may be asking why would we want clay that is harder, of more correctly firmer? When you are trying to make items with really fine details you need a firm clay. You just can't get the details to stay with a soft clay. On the scale we are working with for the 18” dolls this is not as big of an issue as it is with my dollhouse miniature work.

I hope this information was helpful, let me know if you have any questions. 

Tuesday, March 21, 2017

Making Doll Food Polymer Clay 101 pt 1

Ever since I posted the very first polymer clay tutorial on this channel people have been asking me to create a series of tutorials on the basics of working with polymer clay. I finally got around to it, so welcome to week 1 of Polymer Clay 101.

First I feel like I should say that I bought my first block of polymer clay around 30 years ago so I have been playing with this clay for a while. The things I am going share in this series, just like my other tutorials is based on my experiences from working with the product.

If you have questions on what I covered in the video be sure to ask. 

Tuesday, March 14, 2017

Doll Size Cinnamon Rolls

This week I thought it would be fun to make some cinnamon rolls for the dolls to enjoy. These are really easy but a bit on the messy side because of the liquid polymer clay.

For the bread part we are just using an off white color clay. Mix any white polymer clay with a little bit of beige polymer clay, just enough to “warm up” the color. The idea is you don't want a bright white color, slightly off-white looks more realistic.

For the “cinnamon” mixture I just mixed some Transparent Liquid Sculpy with some of the two darker colors of chalk we always use for our baked goods. (the brown and the reddish brown) You will have to play around to get the right color.

Then assemble the cinnamon roll like I did on the video. These are super easy to make.

I used a bit of the liquid clay to adhere the roll to the craft stick to make it easier to handle. That way my fingers stay a lot cleaner and the roll doesn't get smashed by my holding it.

Since the rolls are rather thick you do want bake them long enough to get all that liquid clay baked. I recommend 275 degrees for about 15 minutes.

For the frosting use a 3-D type fabric paint in a white. This stuff takes while to dry so be prepared and don't touch it for several hours.

Wednesday, March 8, 2017

Doll Size Garlic Bread

This week I decided to show you how to make the dolls some garlic bread to go with that spaghetti we made last week. This is a really easy and quick project and really fun to do.

If you want specific clay recommendations for the bread check out my Basic Bread video on my channel.

Basically you need an off-white color polymer clay for the bread and you get that by mixing white and beige. Add something for texture this time I used white sand because it was already on my table but for the basic bread tutorial I used cornmeal.

Form a loaf that is about 1 ½” wide and ¾” tall in a basic oval shape. We don't need to freeze this one because we actually want this bread to be slightly flattened. So we are using that tendency of the clay to help us.

Use your chalk to add the crust color and slice in kind of thick slices.

Texture your slices and bake according to the clay directions.

For the “garlic butter” I am using a yellow transparent glass paint. Just lightly brush it onto one cut/textured surface of your bread slices and allow to dry.

That really is all there is to it. 

Tuesday, February 28, 2017

Doll Size Spaghetti

This week I decided to get out one of my favorite clay tools, the extruder and show you how to make some spaghetti for the dolls.

A clay extruder is a great investment if you are going to make doll food from clay, but if you are patient you could roll the snakes of clay by hand and get a similar effect.

For the clay I just used a very soft off white clay with a touch of a very soft yellow clay to warm up the color.

After baking the clay to make sauce I just mixed some Tomato Spice color craft paint with some satin Mod Podge and some sand to create some tomato sauce for the top. A sprinkle of finely grated baked white clay adds the final touch of Parmesan Cheese. 

Tuesday, February 21, 2017

Doll Size Gardening Supplies

The last few weeks (since I finished up the fireplace) I have been trying to get a project to work for a tutorial. I wanted to make a fireplace screen to sit in front of the fireplace. I have lost count of the number of times I have made the project and ended up throwing the results in the trash. It just won't work out the way I want it to. I am hoping to be able to figure it out at a later date.

Now it is time to move on to other projects.

This week I decided to get out a kit I got from Ann over at Paper Minis a long time ago. I think I purchased this when she first came out with it. I have been meaning to make a tutorial of it for well over a year. I just never got to it. So this is the time, we are finally getting some weather that is trying to act like spring is on the way. The local garden centers are filling up with stuff so I figured the dolls should get into a spring mood too.

Like all of Ann's kits for the 18” dolls this comes on a CD so you can print it out as many times as you need to.

I used just some regular weight high quality bright white printer paper for everything except the cover of the catalog. That page I printed on a “photo project” paper. It is slightly heavier than regular paper and prints really well.

This (like all of Ann's kits) is a super fun project and it turns out so darn cute. I am looking forward to doing some photo shoots with the dolls using the pieces I created today

Tuesday, January 24, 2017

Doll Size Grilled Cheese Sandwich

This week I thought it might be nice to do another food tutorial since it has been a while since we have done one. And since the weather here where I live has definitely been winter I thought it should be some kind of comfort food. Grilled cheese sandwiches always fit that definition so here we are.

I am using the bread from a past tutorial which you can find here. Since it has been sitting for a couple of months since I last used it and it has been cold here I didn't need to chill or freeze it in order to slice it. If that isn't the case for your bread cane go ahead and chill it.

We are basically doing the same texturing we did for the toast a while back and a similar coloring too. I think this is just a bit more on the golden side.

For the solid layer of cheese I used a blend of orange and yellow to give a good cheese color. It doesn't have to be perfect though the coat of liquid clay will make the color correct.

For the liquid clay I decided to use my Kato liquid rather than TLS (Translucent Liquid Sculpey) I wanted the more translucent nature of the Kato product as well as the shine that it has. Any liquid clay would be fine for this.

To color the liquid clay use oil paint, I just have a really cheap set (under $10) from the craft store. I used Vermillion Red and Lemon Yellow with a touch of Yellow Ocher. If I was doing it again I would leave out the yellow orcher, it was too brown and I had to add a lot more of the lemon yellow to get back to a good color.

Since I am using liquid clay I am baking on a ceramic tile. It is just too hard to get the drips of liquid clay off the paper plate without having paper fibers stuck to the drips. I want to leave the drips since they really add to the sandwich. The tile I am using is just one from Home Depot, the kind you would use on a kitchen counter. It is around 6” square.

I hope you enjoyed the tutorial today. Thanks for stopping by and I look forward to having you stop by again.

Tuesday, January 3, 2017

Doll Size Fireplace pt 5

This week we are adding a fake fire to our doll's fireplace. I love how this turned out and the best part was I made it from stuff I had on hand.

For the fire grate I made a structure out of craft sticks, skinny sticks and a couple of wooden shapes that I had from the craft store.

The craft sticks were marked at ½” from each end for the “feet” to be glued on. Then on the reverse side of the sticks I marked every ½” for the spacing of the skinny sticks.

The skinny sticks were cut to 2 ¾” long with a mark at ½” from one end for placement on the craft sticks.

The Beacon 3-in-1 glue, I know one of my favorite Youtube crafters raves about it. I was thinking it was Lindsay from the The Frugal Crafter but I am not sure. It could have been her or someone else. Whoever it was they were correct. This is a fantastic glue for this project. I need to play with it some more soon.

The sticks I used for the “firewood” were just cut from some of the branches on the trees along my driveway. I did cut them down to about the size I was going to use and then I baked them in my oven at a low temperature for about 30 minutes. I wanted to try to kill any bugs that might have been making a home in them for the winter. Also it was really wet (raining really hard) the day I gathered them so they were pretty wet. I wanted to get at least the surface dry enough that the glue would stick to them.

I love how this entire project turned out. The fireplace with the little tea light lit for the fire is just sooooo cute. I wish the camera could pick up the glow from it better.