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Have you checked out all my blogs?


Dollhouse Minis: http://joannes18dolls.blogspot.com/


18” Dolls: http://joannes18dolls.blogspot.com/


General Crafts: http://joannes-place.blogspot.com/


Cooking:https://joanne-kitchen.blogspot.com/





Also if for some reason I can't post I will try to give a head's up on the Facebook page so check there too.

Tuesday, September 19, 2017

Doll Size Scrambled Eggs





This week I thought we should give an egg alternative for the dolls that like theirs scrambled. This project is so easy and really fun to do. You can keep chopping the clay until you get just the look you want.

We are using the same clays we used for the fried eggs from a few weeks ago. And these are even easier and a lot quicker to make than those.



If you missed the fried eggs tutorial you can find it here.



Tuesday, September 12, 2017

Doll Size Snake Plant





This week I decided to do something a bit different for our project. I love how houseplants in the real world make a room feel more lived in and comfortable. I love to add plants to my dollhouse miniature scenes so I thought it was time we started adding some simple plants to our 18” doll scenes.

The snake plant is one of my favorite plants to show how to make because it is so simple to make it look realistic. Also it is one of the few houseplants that I have much luck with. You see as much as I love plants I am famous for killing my plants. At least the snake plant has a chance of survival under my care.

In order to make this project really easy for you to make I created a PDF pattern sheet (actually 2 sheets) and you can find the page 1 here and page 2 here. You can download the files to your computer and print them to use for the project. Be sure to print them at 100% and to check that the test square measures 1”.


You will need something to use as a plant pot, I used one of those disposable condiment cups from the dollar store.
Some foam to fill the cup, I used the builder's foam I have on hand but styrofoam or floral foam would also work.
Dried coffee grounds.
Tacky Glue
Mod Podge
Dark green paint
A medium or light greyish green paint
A yellow paint
A brown paint
Paint brushes
18 ga floral wire
Wire cutters
Toothpicks
Ceramic tile (or other surface to work on)
Scissors
Wet Wipes
Plain white printer paper
Spray Matte sealer
Something to hold the leaves while they dry


The drying rack that I used to hold my leaves while they dried is one I made a few years ago I have a video on how to make it if you would like to make one too. You can find that video on my dollhouse miniatures channel here.

I like to use a spray sealer on my projects like this to make them look more finished, the one I used is a matte finish and can be found with the craft paint at the craft store. Just be sure to use it outside and read the instructions on the label.






Tuesday, September 5, 2017

Doll Size Mugs





This week I decided to adapt a recent project from my dollhouse miniatures channel and make it for the 18” dolls. So today we are making the dolls some mugs and we aren't even looking at our clay, we are using scrapbook/ cardmaking cardstock. Yes, that's right we are making the dolls some really sturdy mugs out of cardstock. And they will look like they are made of ceramic when we are done.


On camera I made just a basic mug but I have been making mugs for a few days using this method and have made a small variety of mugs so I will share the variations here on this blog.

All the mugs require the same basic materials/tools to make them.

We need some heavy cardstock, the kind you would make cards out of that measures 12”. The piece I used in the video came from one of those books of cardstock that you can get that have a bunch of sheets that all coordinate for projects.

You will need a dowel or something similar to form your mug on, in the video I used a piece of 1” diameter dowel that is just a couple of inches long. It is covered with a strip of parchment paper to keep the mugs from sticking. You could also cover it with plastic wrap of waxed paper.

You will need a good glue stick as well as tacky glue.

Something to cut your cardstock accurately, I like to use a straightedge, craft knife and self-healing mat.

The best clear finish to give the “ceramic” finish to our paper in this scale is Triple Thick, you will need the brush on variety.

A soft paint brush.

Optional: embellishments (stickers, etc)

For most of my mugs I cut my strip of cardstock 1 ¼” x 12” this gives a good height and thickness for the mugs.

Mug #1 (the one from the video) is just a basic mug and you saw how it went together.









Mug #2 Again just a basic mug, the handle is slightly different is about all.








Mug #3 This one is taller and thinner, and was inspired by my favorite mug for tea. The cardstock strip was cut 1 ½” x 12” and it was formed over a ¾” dowel. It is decorated with some stickers to give it a bit of a different look.






Mug #4 For this one I again cut the strip of cardstock at 1 ½” x 12” but I used the same 1” dowel that I used for the rest. This gives a nice oversize mug. My youngest son has several mugs like this in real life and he loves them.








Mug #5 For this mug I actually used plain white cardstock for the mug and added a single layer of a lightweight scrapbook paper. The lighter paper was cut at 1 ¼” tall by just enough length to go around the base mug. It was glued on with glue stick.







Mug #6 This is a basic mug but before I glued it around the dowel I drew straight lines ¼” from each long edge. Then I cut 2 strips of the cardstock that were ¼” by 12” and using glue stick I glued them to the mug base while it was still on the dowel using the lines I had drawn to guide me. I then glued both ends of the handle to the strips. I had intended to leave the mug like that but when I was going through my stickers I had the perfect silver strips to glue on and I just had to do it.

Mug #7 This one is short and I think it is cute with the others. It is made exactly like the basic mug except I cut the cardstock strip at 1” x 12” and then used the same 1” dowel. I also formed the handle slightly different.






As you can see the variations are probably endless, I can think of a dozen more variations just sitting here.


A couple of things in closing:

If you have stickers you want to use, be sure to test them with the Triple Thick, I had a couple that the ink ran. So test first so you don't ruin your project.

And secondly check for loose brush hairs as you work. I found out too late that one of my brushes was shedding and I now have hairs stuck in the finish of some of my mugs. Hopefully I can get them out without destroying my work.






Tuesday, August 29, 2017

Doll Size Fried Eggs





This week I decided to expand on the breakfast theme for the dolls and make some fried eggs. This is another really fun and easy project to make with clay.

For the clay you will need-

a yellow “yolk” color, I am using Premo in Cadmium Yellow, Fimo Golden Yellow is also a good choice and I am certain that Sculpey has a similar color.

a white mixture of equal parts white and translucent clay The brand of these clays really doesn't matter just pick a good white white. (this is a clay combination I use so much that I often will purchase blocks of the two colors on sale and premix them together so I can get right to work on making clay foods)


Again this week we are working on a ceramic tile because we are going to coat our eggs with Gallery Glass paint in the end.

For the white portion of the eggs you will need balls of clay that are about 5/8” in diameter. You will them smoosh these balls out to irregular shapes. Remember eggs that you cook in a skillet aren't perfectly round, they are usually far from it in fact. So have fun and smash that clay down until it is about 1 ¼” across. Do this right on the tile you are going to bake on and don't put them too close together.

Now using the yellow clay form small balls about 3/8' in diameter then gently flatten until they are about ½” in diameter. Place one of these on each egg white.

Now bake the eggs at 230° F for about 10-15 minutes and allow to cool.


Once the clay and the tile have all cooled down you can add the coat of clear Gallery Glass. I also added just a bit of Amber in small areas at the very edge of the pool of clear. This will look like those crispy bits at the edges of the eggs.

Allow this to dry thoroughly!! it takes a while and it will be best to let these set at least overnight.


Tuesday, August 22, 2017

Doll Size Cooked Bacon




This week we are continuing with the bacon cane we made last week to create some cooked bacon for the dolls. This does mean that you will need the bacon cane we created last week. If you haven't made that yet the tutorial can be found here.

Since bacon shrinks when cooked we will first need to make our cane thinner in width. Just a bit, stretch and push on it until it is about 1 ¼” to 1 ½” wide. Anywhere in that range should be fine. Next cut some slices of bacon and lay them on your baking surface. Since I am sure the bottom side of mine will never show I am baking on a ceramic tile (this will make later steps easier) if you are going to have your slices loose you might want to bake on a paper plate. If you do that be sure to chalk and paint both sides of you bacon.

Once your bacon is laid out the first step is to give it a curve. When bacon is cooked the “meaty” edge always seems to shrink more than the fat edge so curve the slices with the meaty edge on the inside of the curve. Next use your fingers and any tools you are comfortable with to give the bacon slices some ripples like cooked bacon has.

The next step is to brush some reddish brown (brick red) chalk over the entire surface of the bacon. Remember if you are going to have your bacon loose do this on both the top and bottom. After this chalk is rubbed in sprinkle with a bit of dark brown chalk and rub that in. (again on both sides if you are going to leave yours loose)

It is now baking time, bake for our normal of 10 minutes at 230° F. Remember if you are baking on a tile it will hold the heat longer than a paper plate so it will take you clay longer to cool to room temperature.

Once the clay has cooled to room temperature paint on a coat of Gallery Glass (glass paint) in the color Amber. This will go on kind of milky looking but will dry a nice transparent amber color. Be sure to have your clay on a smooth non-porous surface for this step not a paper plate (you want to be able to peel your bacon off the surface and not have bits of paper stuck to it) If you are making loose bacon be sure to paint the backside too.


So that is all there is to making the cooked bacon. I love this easy project because once again it looks difficult but it really isn't. 


Tuesday, August 15, 2017

Doll Size Bacon




This week I decided it was time for all you to start making some clay food for the dolls. We have learned so much in the Clay 101 series and now we can make some foods.

I love making bacon for the dolls from clay because it is one of those projects that looks complicated but it isn't. I mean look at the finished bacon in the photo, that looks really hard to do, doesn't it? But, if you watched the video you saw how easy it really is. One thing that is in our favor is that every slice of bacon looks a bit different. All you have to do is get the clay colors correct and the basic shape/size right and you have it!

So for clay colors:

First we need a bacon fat color. This is basically a slightly translucent off white color. This time I used some Original Sculpey and Translucent Sculpey III in equal amounts.

Next we need the “meat color” I used Fimo Indian Red and Sculpey III in Hazelnut again in equal amounts. A bit of a warning when you first start mixing these two colors it is going to look awful, just keep mixing and it will turn into the color we want.

But we need 3 meat colors, so we need to mix them from the two colors we just mixed.

Take some of the bacon fat color and an equal amount of the bacon meat color and mix those. This will give you bacon meat #2.

No take a small amount of bacon meat #2 and mix it with an equal amount of the bacon fat color.

Those are the colors we need to make our bacon.

So for that basic shape we want a finished slab that is about 3” wide and ½” thick. It needs to have 3 layers of meat with the darkest on at the bottom and the lightest at the top. Each of these meat layers is topped with a layer of the fat. Just don't make any of the layers even, you want them lumpy and bumpy. Only the top and bottom want to be relatively flat.

This slab should be a bit larger than the finished size (3” wide bye ½” thick) so that you can kind of smash and smoosh it to size.

Once you are happy with the size/ shape brush the top with a light yellow chalk, you want one that is close to the yellow ocher we use for baked goods just a bit lighter in color.

Now slice off some bacon slices and bake according at 235° F for about 10 minutes.

Allow to cool.


Be sure to hold onto the rest of the slab of bacon we will need it next week to make some cooked bacon. 

Tuesday, July 25, 2017

Making Doll Food Polymer Clay 101 pt 14




I know I gave a very brief discussion about baking surfaces in an early video in this series but I thing it is important enough to discuss it in more detail.

I have included photos of the bottom surface of the pieces of clay I baked on each baking surface. I know some are difficult to see, hopefully you can see the differences. 

If you are a regular viewer of my channel you may have already noticed that most of the time I bake my clay projects on paper plates. Yes, it is perfectly safe. The burning temperature for the clay is much lower than the burning temperature for the paper. In my opinion there are several advantages to using paper plates to bake on. Fist they are cheap, only use the really cheap kind that is plain white and has no coating. Secondly the paper plate doesn't really leave any kind of marking on the bottom side of your clay. The top and the bottom of flat pieces of clay look pretty much the same texture wise.

One of the things I do a lot is test bake clay mixtures. Whenever I am working on a new project I mix my clay and then bake small pieces to see if I have the mixture the way I want it. With the paper plate I can make the notes about the mixtures I have tried right on the plate next to that piece of clay.

If you are working with a group of people doing clay projects you can write each person's name right on the paper plate that contains their project. Makes keeping everything straight much easier.




Another surface I use often is a ceramic tile. Just one from the home improvement store. I like to stick to the 6” by 6” ones for baking and reserve the bigger size to work on. The major problem with tiles is that they leave the bottom of the clay project very shiny. This can be a distraction on many projects. The only time I always use a tile is if I am using liquid clay, then the tile is a must so you can cleanly remove the project from the baking surface.



The other surface I use regularly is sand paper. I love how it makes the bottom side of the clay look like a real baked good. I especially like this when making doll cookies.










Now these are not the only surfaces I use, these are just the top 3. In many projects I will specify what I suggest you bake on, and I usually choose the surface based on what texture will look best with the finished item.