Doll Size Pumpkin Spice Rolls

 

Watch the video here.

This week I have another tutorial for our snack cake series. This time we are inspired by the snack cakes of the same name that the Little Debbie company makes in real life. I saw the box of these at the grocery store the other day and thought they would be really fun to make for the dolls. As a bonus they are super simple and would be a good project for a relative beginner in polymer clay crafting. We are only using 2 colors of clay and minimal tools.

 

For the two colors of clay I am using some Original Sculpey for the filling and the bands of icing on the rolls. And some Fimo in Yellow Ocher for the cake part. Since the cake part really has little/no texture we won’t even need to do any texturing on this project.

To start make sure your clays are both conditioned and ready to work with. The Fimo will take a bit more time to condition because it is a much firmer clay. Then roll the clay out into sheets. For the cake part I used a single layer craft stick on each side of the clay to make sure my sheet of clay was a consistent thickness all the way across.

If you don’t have a clay roller like I am using just use a straight sided jar like the kind that capers or olives come in.

For the white (filling) layer I did the same thing except I used my set of double craft sticks to get the right thickness.

Since the white clay is softer than the yellow it will naturally squish out just a tiny bit when we cut so it will look like the filling.

The next step is to layer the white layer on top of the yellow one and trim the edges to even the layer out. Now roll the two layers together using the double craft stick spacers, this will help to thin the layer we are working with and also eliminate any air bubbles that might be between the layer. It will also help the layers to stick together better.

Now just roll the clay like you would if you were making cinnamon rolls with the yellow (cake) layer on the outside.

At this point you should have roll that looks like the snack cake but it is too big. So now we need to gently roll the snake down until it is ½” in diameter. Go slow and be gentle, this is an easy process.

Next cut the snake into pieces that are 7/8” long. This is the size of our finished snack cakes.

Now onto decorating. If you have some white 3-D paint you could use that after the snack cakes are baked to make the lines. However I am out of white 3-D paint so I decided to show you how to do the icing lines with the same white clay that we used for the filling. It is just a matter rolling very thin snakes and carefully putting them in place in the design you want. I simplified the design that is on the real snack cakes but if you are more patient than me you could add the extra lines to create a more similar design.

Then just bake the snack cakes on a paper plate for 15 minutes at the temperature suggested for the clay brands you are using.

 

 

 

And the snack cakes are ready for the dolls to enjoy as the weather turns to fall.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And since I love to take pictures of my doll foods with the real thing that inspired it here is that picture too.

As always I do want to sincerely thank all of you for watching my videos and reading my blog posts. It means so much to me that you are supporting me in this way. If I could ask you all to do just a bit more by subscribing to the channel and liking the videos and leaving comments. Those help more than you can imagine. Also if you could pass the links on to your friends I would appreciate it so much.

Doll Size Mini Donuts

 

Watch the video here.

This week I thought we should make another entry into the snack cake collection so I picked one of my favorites the powdered mini donuts. I think most of the snack cake brands have these under different names but I’m pretty sure they are all the same size and look pretty much the same. The ones I picked up to use for my model were the Hostess brand.

This is a super easy clay project using minimal tools. I am using some Original Sculpey for mine because for this project the off white color works really well.

First step (after conditioning your clay) is to roll a snake that is ½” in diameter. Then cut that snake into pieces that are 3/8” long. Each piece will make 1 mini donut. Roll the piece of clay into a ball. I like to use the palms of my hands for this project because then the ball has a bit of texture. Once you have balls of clay one at a time flatten the balls using your finger in the palm of your hand until you have a rounded disk shape that is about ½” in diameter and about 3/8” tall.

Now time to make the hole in the center of the donuts. For this I am using a Phillips Screwdriver bit. Just an average size one. This will give that shape to the hole that these donuts always seem to have. You can use a screwdriver bit like I am or an actual screwdriver whatever you have on hand. (do make sure it is clean since you don’t want to transfer anything to the clay) Press the screwdriver into the top side of the clay piece then flip the clay over and press it in the center from the other side. Repeat this until you are happy with the way the hole looks.

Next we are going to add the “cooked” color to the outside of the donuts. For this we only need to use the Yellow Ocher colored artist chalk. Just brush the chalk over the entire surface of the donuts. Once we cover our donuts with the powder sugar we won’t see very much of this but if this step is skipped you will notice a difference in the finished look of the donuts.

Now it is time to bake the donuts at the temperature recommended on your package of clay for about 10 minutes. Allow the clay to cool to room temperature.

For the powdered sugar coating on the donuts we are going to use white artist chalk. You will need probably more than you think, it does take a bit of the chalk to give a nice thick coating. Use a knife to scrape the chalk dust into a small container. Then working with one donut at a time coat the donut with some Mat Mod Podge using a brush. Then plop the donut into the container of white chalk dust and run it around until it is completely coated.

Put the donut onto a non-stick surface (like wax paper) and allow to dry. Repeat with all the donuts. Once they are dry you can add more chalk the same way if needed. I was lucky and got good coverage with the first coat.

If you have a lot of excess chalk coming off the donuts a careful crushing with a very soft paint brush will help.

And there they are mini donuts for the dolls to enjoy!

 

 

And since I love to take pictures of the doll size food next to the real one here is that view.

 

 

As always I do want to sincerely thank all of you for watching my videos and reading my blog posts. It means so much to me that you are supporting me in this way. If I could ask you all to do just a bit more by subscribing to the channel and liking the videos and leaving comments. Those help more than you can imagine. Also if you could pass the links on to your friends I would appreciate it so much.

Doll Size Grilled Steaks

 

Watch the video here.

I do want to apologize up front because I didn’t manage to take any pictures until about half way through the process. I am so sorry I just totally forgot.

I think a lot of us think of steaks on the grill in the summer so I figured the dolls should join in too. This is the first time using the grill mark tool we made a while back and it worked just as I wanted it to. I love how easy this simple tool makes getting nice evenly spaced grill marks on the food. It was a bit messy but well worth it.

So this is a really easy project to make even though it might not look easy when you first look at the finished steaks. So let’s talk about the process step by step.

We only need a couple of colors of clay for this project. The main color is Fimo in Caramel, this in my opinion is the perfect base color for the cooked steaks. The other color we need is our “fat mixture” a combination that is 1 part white clay (any brand) mixed with 2 parts translucent clay (again any brand) I actually keep this color mix in a bag in my clay stash mixed and ready to go since I use it so much. The brands of clay don’t matter so if you run into a good polymer clay sale grab the two colors and mix a batch to have on hand.

Start by rolling a fat snake of the caramel color clay. At this point the size is not really important just make a fat short drum like shape. It should be more than ¾” wide since that is the size we will roll it down to be later.

Now use your clay knife and start a cut going down one side. Just start the cut then use your fingers to tear the clay into 2 pieces. Add a thin layer of the fat mixture and put the two pieces back together. Don’t worry about the bits of clay that extend on the sides of the snake those are good.

Now add another cut/tear to the drum but don’t go all the way through stop part way into the drum and add more of the fat mixture. Repeat this as many times as you wish, I like to do just the one all the way through and one part way but you could do more depending on the look you are after.

Now add more of the fat mixture to the outside of the drum. You don’t want so much that it wraps all the way around but do as much as you want. Also it is be better if it isn’t perfectly straight because you want to have each steak you make look a bit different with a different amount of fat in/on each one.

Now reduce the snake down to ¾” in diameter. Just keep rolling it between your hands and one your work surface until it reaches the correct size. You don’t have to be exact just get it close to this size.

Now cut off the very ends of the clay to get rid of those sunken parts that always form. Now measure how long the remaining snake (or more correctly I should be calling this a cane at this point) is. You want to cut off individual steak pieces that around ½” long. Again they don’t have to be exactly the same size, steaks in real life are not the same.

Today I am just showing you how to make a very generic boneless steak. If you want to make something specific find a photo and go by that for fat placement, shape and size.

Now we are going to take those round pieces and make them look like steaks. First I like to use my fingers to make them be a bit more oval shaped but not a perfect oval just not perfectly round. Then use your fingers to flatten them our to be around ¼” thick. This gives a nice size and proportion when finished. We are using our fingers instead of rolling with a roller because our fingerprints will make the clay resemble the real meat a lot better with no extra texturing needed.

Now we get to use our artist chalks to add some color and make these steaks look more realistic.

Start with a combination of some red chalk and some rust colored chalk. Mix these together then use a cotton swab to add a line going around the meaty part of the sides of the steaks. Don’t go all the way to the top or bottom stay in the center and stay of the fat areas. This will be that line on the side of a correctly cooked steak.

Next we need to coat all sides of the steaks with a coat of yellow ocher chalk. This color on the steaks does so much to bring them to life. After the fat areas get the yellow ocher chalk they suddenly look cooked, so does the meat it just makes them look so much better.

Once you are happy with that layer of color add some dark brown chalk to the meat areas of the top and bottom of each steak. You just want to darken up the meat a bit don’t go overboard with this step.

Now the messy part we are going to add some grill marks to our steaks. Start by getting paper towels and wet wipes ready. Then get a piece of black chalk and apply it directly to enough of the bars on the grill mark tool to cover the size of your steak.

Then carefully press the tool into the top surface of each steak. Reapply chalk as needed and be very careful about not getting the black chalk where you don’t want it. I try to only touch the black chalk with my left hand and everything else with my right. I still clean my fingers often.

Once this process is finished bake the steaks at the recommended temperature for your clay for 15 minutes and allow to cool to room temperature.

Off camera I made some black sand, we’ve colored sand in other videos so I decided to not do this on camera this time. It is a simple process, you just use an alcohol marker to color an area (I used some aluminum foil this time. Then spray on some isopropyl alcohol to create basically an alcohol ink, then stir in some white sand and allow to dry.

Now brush a thin coat of a clear mat finish, I’m using Mat Mod Podge then sprinkle on a bit of the black sand. This will add some texture to make the steaks look more realistic, I do just the top and allow to dry.

Once the Mod Podge dries give the edges of each steak a thin coat of the same Mod Podge then brush a thin coat over the layer of sand to seal that in place. Once this all dries flip the steaks over repeat the layer of Mod Podge with sand and allow to dry. Then give that side a top coat of the same Mod Podge and allow to dry.

As always I do want to sincerely thank all of you for watching my videos and reading my blog posts. It means so much to me that you are supporting me in this way. If I could ask you all to do just a bit more by subscribing to the channel and liking the videos and leaving comments. Those help more than you can imagine. Also if you could pass the links on to your friends I would appreciate it so much.

Doll Size Corn on the Cob

 

Watch the video here.

This week we are making the dolls some corn on the cob. And I have to say I had problems, not because the project is very difficult my problems stemmed from the fact that the only package of clay the correct color I have in my stash is so soft it was almost impossible to work with. I spent an entire day experimenting with different options and came up with the only workable solution for this clay. If your clay ends up being this soft hopefully you will benefit from my trials here. If your clay is acting like is should your corn on the cob will go much better.

As I talk to you in this blog post about the steps I took to make the project I will also go over how I would have normally done this and how you can make the project no matter how soft your clay is.

The fist step this week was to make the base corn cobs that we will be building our corn on the cob on. This was a simple process and it was very much like the way we started last week when we made the ears of corn. I started by conditioning some Original Sculpey but any slightly off-white clay would work here. Then I rolled that clay into ¼” snakes which were cut down to 2” long pieces. If your dolls want to serve their corn as half cobs cut theirs into 1” pieces. (growing up one of my friend’s mom always cut the cobs of corn in half and it thought it was strange, my friend thought it was strange that my mom didn’t do that)

Then bake these corn cob bases at the temperature recommended for your clay for 10 minutes and allow to cool to room temperature.

Now we can cover the cob bases with the corn kernels. This a fairly easy process. First pick the color clay you want to use corn comes in a few different tones of yellow and even white. The one I am making today is the bright yellow I remember from my childhood and what I consider to be “normal” corn color. From time to time I see lighter colored corn in the produce department at my local store but not often.

Normally at this point I would mix my colored clay with a translucent clay, about equal amounts, to give a more realistic look to the finished corn. However, the package of Sculpey III that I had in my stash did not act nicely at all. I am not sure what is wrong with this batch of clay but it is much softer than any other clay I have ever used. I even double checked the label and I don’t see anything indicating that it is different. When I did what I consider the “normal” step of adding the translucent clay to it I got a clay that would not hold the texture I added to it. When baked the corn kernel texture had pretty much disappeared. So that was not going to work. So I decided to just work with this clay on its own with no translucent. It still looks pretty good with baked and it held the texture really well.

So roll the colored clay out into a sheet using craft sticks to make a nice even layer and cut pieces that are 1” by ¾” Now normally I would be adding a very thin layer of liquid polymer clay to the back of this piece before adding it to the cured clay. However, that was the other issue I ran into with this particular clay. When I tried that I ended up with something that was almost the consistency of pudding. It was just a mush, no longer a sheet of clay. Since this clay is so soft and so sticky I decided to skip the liquid clay and it seems to be holding just as well as normal clay would with the liquid clay.

So my advice to you is if you are using a normal package of clay that is a normal consistency add some translucent clay to the colored clay and roll that mixture out into a sheet of clay. Cut the pieces to fit your cob bases and add a very thin layer of liquid clay to the back and carefully add the layer of yellow clay to the base.

Now it is time to add the corn kernels. to our ears of corn. To do this I am using a wire mesh strainer from the dollar store. (remember you can never use it for food again once you use it for clay, it is now a clay tool) Add a bit of cornstarch to the surface of the wire mesh and holding onto the very ends of the ear of corn roll it on the mesh pushing down to get a good texture. Just keep rolling until you are happy.

 

 

Then carefully transfer to your baking surface and bake at the recommended temperature for 10 minutes and allow to cool.

 

 

And there it is, corn on the cob for the dolls to enjoy this summer.

As always I do want to sincerely thank all of you for watching my videos and reading my blog posts. It means so much to me that you are supporting me in this way. If I could ask you all to do just a bit more by subscribing to the channel and liking the videos and leaving comments. Those help more than you can imagine. Also if you could pass the links on to your friends I would appreciate it so much.

Tools For Making Doll Food

 

Watch the video here.

This week I have a different type of video for you. This week we are making a couple of tools we are going to need for some upcoming projects I have planned.

I had actually been planning to do a totally different tutorial today however when I went to grab my materials to make it I realized I needed to make a new set of spacers to roll out my clay. (my old set had gotten damaged a while back) Since I was going to be making those I decided to go ahead and make another tool I have been working out that we will need soon also. And since I was making these I decided to go ahead and turn on the camera and teach you all how to make these at the same time.

So I started with the easiest one, the spacers I use to roll out clay. I like to have these on hand in a couple of thicknesses so I can easily roll out thicker sheets of clay. I make them out of craft sticks that I glue together and clamp while the glue dries to prevent both warping and spreading/shifting of the craft sticks. I just use Tacky glue for this.

You will need these in pairs since you will need one for each side of the piece of clay you are rolling out. I made a set 3 craft sticks thick on camera, this makes a spacer that is about ¼” thick. Off camera I made a pair that were 2 sticks thick, these measure about 1/8” thick. The amount and type of glue you use can affect how thick yours end up as well as the brand of craft sticks you use. Do be sure to use glue that is polymer clay safe and make sure the glue has time to cure at least a day or so before you use them the first time.

Now onto what I am calling a “grill mark tool” I have been planning to make some summer foods over the next few months for the dolls. In my mind that means at least a few of them will be things that have been cooked on the BBQ grill. I knew I needed to come up with a way to do the those all important grill marks easily. So for the last couple of months I have been thinking over how to do this. I came up with this design a while back and I am happy with how I think it is going to work.

I also spent some time debating about how to present the making of this tool to you all. I didn’t want to have to go over the how to make the tool each time we used it but also by itself I didn’t feel it would make a very good tutorial but since I needed to do the other tools also I felt the combination would be the solution. Now in future tutorials when I use either of the tools we make today I can just link this tutorial so you can find out how to create the tools.

For the grill mark tool we will need 4 craft sticks and 6 bamboo skewers. You will also need glue (I used tacky glue) some wide masking tape and some 4 squares to the inch graph paper.

Start by setting up your work surface. Tape down a piece of wide masking tape sticky side up, make sure it is wide enough to slip the graph paper under it. Cut a piece of the graph paper about 4 ½ wide and slip it under the wide masking tape. I do highly recommend taping the graph paper down once you have it placed where you want it.

Now cut the bamboo skewers down to 4 ½” long, I got two pieces from each skewer with a tiny bit of the pointed end left over.

Carefully lay the skewers onto the tape lining them up so they are centered on the vertical lines of the graph paper. Work your way across lining up each skewer with the lines so they are equally placed. Do your best to line them up and to have the ends lined up also.

 

 

Once you are happy with how the skewers are placed carefully remove the graph paper from underneath everything.

Now add glue to 3 of the craft sticks and carefully place them across the skewers to hold them together. 

 

 

Once you are happy with the placement very carefully add a weight to the top. I am using a brick from the hardware store. You could use a book or whatever is heavy enough to hold all the pieces in place. Now let it sit to dry, at least a few hours. I ended up leaving mine overnight since I got busy. You want that glue to have time to dry.

Now carefully lift the brick off and set it aside. Remove the tape from the work surface, turn the everything over and carefully remove the tape from the tool check all the skewers to make sure they all are held tight. Since both the craft sticks and skewers tend to not be completely straight you might find that you have a couple of places that the glue didn’t hold. Carefully add some glue to those spots and clamp them in place to dry.

Next I added an additional craft stick to the back of the center one to act as a handle to make this easier to use. Be sure to clamp this also until the glue at least sets up a bit.

As with the spacers allow all the glue to at least a day or two before you use it.

As always I do want to sincerely thank all of you for watching my videos and reading my blog posts. It means so much to me that you are supporting me in this way. If I could ask you all to do just a bit more by subscribing to the channel and liking the videos and leaving comments. Those help more than you can imagine. Also if you could pass the links on to your friends I would appreciate it so much.

Doll Size Pizza Rolls

 

Watch the video here.

This week for our tutorial I decided to stick with the snack theme and show you how to create pizza rolls for the dolls. This is a fun project and I hope you enjoy it.

Since I started out wanting to keep this one simple and I was being a bit lazy and didn’t feel like digging too far into my clay stash I used some Original Sculpey today. Be sure to use the one that is white(ish) for this project. This clay is very soft so it doesn’t like to hold really fine details but it will work for a simple project. It is a bit of any off white color not a true white so if you want to use another clay you will probably need to mix a white polymer clay with a pale beige color (like Fimo Sahara) to get a dough color. One of the advantages of the Original Sculpey is it is much less expensive ounce for ounce. That being said it only comes in larger block sizes. So it does look expensive at first glance. You get a lot of clay in those big blocks so if you are going to be making a lot of doll foods I do recommend getting some to have on hand. It does come in handy for sure.

To form our basic pizza rolls I rolled the clay out to a snake that was 3/8” in diameter and then cut that snake into 3/8” pieces.

 

 

Once you have the clay cut roll each piece into a ball. Then we can begin the texturing process. I like to use one of those scrubbing pads you can get to wash your dishes. I do prefer the ones I get at the dollar store over the more expensive ones from the grocery store but either will work. The thing I like about the cheaper ones is the texture is a bit softer so they give a softer texture on the clay. Just roll the clay balls on the pad.

Next start to make the balls into cylinder shapes by rolling them again. Then using your finger and thumb create the “seam” on the side edges of each one. At the same time tease up a tiny little ear at each corner to give that typical pizza roll shape. Do this with each ball of clay.

Next I decided to try something that had mixed results but I am including it in the video. I made some pizza rolls that were “bitten” into. These are a bit of a more advanced project and only about half of mine worked but I do love the ones that did work. Sadly I didn’t get time to try to make more of these but I do hope to in the future. When I do make more and figure out any tricks I will share those over on my 18” Dolls Facebook page.

To begin I took some aluminum foil and crunched it up to give it texture. Then I rolled small pieces into little log shapes that about ¼” in diameter. This will act as a form to make the open roll on. Be sure to make the end of the log of foil flat not pointed

Roll some of the same clay out into a thin sheet and cut some pieces that are 3/8” wide. Then fold one of them over one of the foil forms you made. Use your fingers to pinch the sides together to look like the seams we created on the whole pizza rolls. Then use both your pointy tool and a clay knife to shorten the length of the pizza roll to look like it has been bitten into.

Then you can use the same scrubber pad to add some texture to the outside of the bitten rolls.

 

Now we are going to add some color with our chalks. I use artist chalks and eye shadow brushes to do this. I first gave each one a quick coat of a yellow ocher color chalk. Be careful to not cover the surface completely. You want some of the color of the clay to shine through the idea is to make these look baked.

Then add just a bit of some reddish brown chalk mostly on the edges and corners of each roll. Just barely brush a bit over the surface of the rolls. Again you aiming to make these look like they have been cooked.

 

 

Once you have the pieces chalked bake them at the recommended temperature for the clay you are using. I normally bake a little cooler than the stated temps because my oven had a habit of drifting up as much as 25 to 30 degrees while it is baking so for my bakes I usually stick to around 225º F. You don’t want to go higher than the recommended temps on the clay. Since the whole pizza rolls are thicker I baked for 15 minutes to make sure they were cured all the way through.

Now carefully pull the foil forms out of the bitten rolls. Like is said I got about half of the ones I did to work. So if you are making these make extras.

As for the whole pizza rolls they are now finished and ready to display.

So let’s add some filling the bitten ones.

To make the sauce that will hold the filling into the bitten rolls I used some liquid Sculpey that was colored with Vermilion Red oil paint. Whenever you are working with liquid clay that you are coloring do a test bake to check the color and that it is going to cure correctly. Simply put a small amount on a scrap of foil and bake for 10 minutes then allow to cool to room temperature. Once cooled check the color and if it is cured completely you can move to the next step.

For the rest of the filling I wanted to make “cheese” and “meat”. For the “cheese” I used tiny balls of a mix of equal parts white and translucent polymer clays. (this is one of the color mixes I keep on hand because I use it so much) For the “meat” I just grabbed a brown lump of clay from my scrap bag to use. For this I used my pointy tool to tear off little bites to look like clumps of meat.

Then add a small amount of the liquid clay to the inside of the bitten roll, just a bit not much then top with a couple of the bits of filling. Then top with a really small amount of the sauce to help hold everything. Bake for 10 minutes at recommended temperature. Allow to cool before you handle these because the liquid clay sometimes is a bit soft coming out of the oven until it cools.

 

So that is all there is to it, I love how they turned out.

 

 

As always I do want to sincerely thank all of you for watching my videos and reading my blog posts. It means so much to me that you are supporting me in this way. If I could ask you all to do just a bit more by subscribing to the channel and liking the videos and leaving comments. Those help more than you can imagine. Also if you could pass the links on to your friends I would appreciate it so much.

Doll Size Trail Mix

 

Watch the video here.

Trail Mix, I have been thinking about doing this project for a while now. I know there are several parts and some of the pieces look a little bit hard but if you watch how I make each one you will see they are really pretty easy to do.

If I were making this not for a video I would make all the pieces and bake them at the same time. For video purposes I made each component of the trail mix separately. I felt it would be easier to follow that way. The only pieces I would keep separate in baking are the “M&M’s” and I would just put them on their own plate to bake. And that is only because they are the only pieces that are going to get any kind of clear finish.

So for the “M&M’s” I did my best to match the colors from the clays I have on hand. I am going to list the colors I used but feel free to use colors you have or can get easily that are similar.

Red- Sculpey III Red Hot Red

Yellow- Sculpey III Lemonade

Orange- Sculpey II Just Orange

Brown- Sculpey III Suede Brown

Blue- Fimo Blue

Green- Fimo Green

When you are working with different color clays do your best to work from the lightest color to the darkest leaving any red clays for last. That way you minimize color transfer and you won’t spend so much time cleaning up between colors. After you use any of the dark colors and especially red you will need to thoroughly clean everything before you move on to working on anything else.

Condition all the colors of clay then roll a small amount of each color out to a snake about 1/8” in diameter. I like to use my drill gauge to size snakes of clay.

 

Next cut the snakes into 1/8” segments. I use 8 square to the inch graph paper to make measuring easy.

 

Next roll each piece into a tiny ball then use your fingertip to gently flatten each one slightly. You want to make a very round disk shape, like a real M&M,

These are baked at the recommended temperature for 10 minutes and allowed to cool to room temperature.

 

Once cooled make a mixture of about equal parts Satin Mod Podge and water. Coat the pieces and allow to dry on a piece of parchment paper or waxed paper.

 

The raisins are the one piece of this project that took me the longest to figure out. But I am so happy with how they worked out in the end. To start with have you every really thought about what color a raisin is?? I had no idea what color clay to use so I googled it and found that the correct color is a very dark purple red. So that gave some guidance as to what clay color I was looking to create. So my mix was_

 

Sculpey III Plum- 2 parts

Sculpey III Suede Brown- 1 part

Translucent (brand doesn’t really matter here) – 1 part

 

 

Mix these three clays together to get a nice raisin color.

Now roll into a 1/8” snake and cut into about 1/6” pieces. With the raisins you have more leeway in size because they are not all the same size.

Now once again roll into tiny balls.

 

Then on top of a piece of aluminum foil that you have tightly crumpled and flattened out place each ball of clay and use a coarser crumpled piece of aluminum foil to create each raisin.

Again these are baked at recommended temperature for 10 minutes.

Now we can make some peanuts for our trail mix. For those I am using the clay color I many time refer to as my “dough color” and I since I use it so often I normally have a baggie of this color pre-mixed so it is ready to use at all times. It is just a mix of equal parts of any white polymer clay and Fimo Sahara (a light beige)

For these we are stating the very same way we have been a snake that measures 1/8” cut into 1/8” segments, rolled into balls then into ovals.

Then we need to use some light yellow ocher chalk to color the peanuts. For the not broken nuts that is all there is to making them. But I have never gotten anything that didn’t have at least some broken peanuts in it so that is the next step.

Take a few of those finished peanuts and place in a container and then in the freezer for 15 minutes. This will make them firm enough that when we cut them they will keep their shape.

As soon as you take them out of the freezer use your clay knife to cut them in half lengthwise. You will need to work quickly so that they stay firm for this step. Once cut use something pointed to make the mark in the center of the cut surface.

Then bake at the recommended temperature for 10 minutes.

On to the final component- the cashews. We are going to use the same clay as for the peanuts. Make a snake that is just a bit bigger than the 1/8” we have been working with and cut it into pieces that are ½” long. Roll into balls. Then into longer shapes that are about ½” long slightly thicker at o
ne end.

Brush with the same yellow ocher chalk then in a reddish brown chalk.

Form the final shape around a bamboo skewer.

Bake at the same temperature for 10 minutes.

 

 

And that my friends is al there is to this project. I love how it turned out and it really isn’t all that hard to make. Just follow my steps and you will have a batch of doll size trail mix for your dolls in no time. .

 

 

 

As always I do want to sincerely thank all of you for watching my videos and reading my blog posts. It means so much to me that you are supporting me in this way. If I could ask you all to do just a bit more by subscribing to the channel and liking the videos and leaving comments. Those help more than you can imagine. Also if you could pass the links on to your friends I would appreciate it so much.